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Thanks all, I'll go ahead and mark this answered. Too bad I didn't ask this question 6+ months ago when Grip2 forks were widely available on closeout! :-) I still wonder a bit about the ride quality differences between the trail forks (Fox 34, RockShox Pike) and the XC forks (SID, Fox 34 SC, Fox 34 SL) with respect to "dirt road" type riding, as well as the practical reliability and maintenance concerns of choosing a trail fork (with its beefier construction, more oil, etc.) and a lighter racing XC fork. I'm sure there is no substitute for personal experience in these matters. As Logan wrote in his "Fox 36 SL Review: Want vs. Need" review: "It’s a matter of priority and a decision that I imagine a lot of people will waffle over until they run their credit card through a machine."

Just to add my own two cents, short answer is there are few regrets adding suspension. It improves comfort in addition to allowing the bike to track to the terrain better. Imagine if a car had zero suspension and relied solely on the tires to achieve both passenger comfort and keeping the vehicle balanced on the road. Not exactly a 1:1 analogy but you get the idea. There is a reason that moving vehicles have suspension. But as others have said, you can't just put a suspention fork on a bike, it needs to be a bike frame that was designed with suspension in mind.

Hi Matt, re your last question: I mainly recommend Grip 2 because I have a ton of miles on it, and can't yet vouch (have as many miles) on the Grip X—note that the X2 should be very similar to the Grip 2 in terms of oil amounts and durability, but again, I can't make any claims as of yet. Regarding performance on gravel, etc, there may be some slight differences with small bump sensitivity, and I think the 34 is going to be a little bit more forgiving for vibrations (like tire buzz, gravel, etc) than the 36 or even the Pike, which can be a cause of numbness, too.

Thanks Juraj. I should have mentioned that my bike (the Otso Fenrir) is designed for approximately a 495 mm-ish axle to crown, which to my understanding is right around the axle to crown of a 120mm suspension travel fork with 25-30% sag. Otso sells the bike with the option of a Fox 34 Step Cast fork in 120mm travel.

Hei Matt Another consideration is the amoutn of travel of the fork the frame was designed around. If it was designed around a 100mm travel fork and your putting on a 120mm travel fork this changes the bikes geometry and can influence steering and your touchpoints. I converted my Hardtail into a dropbar MTB (a Trek Procaliber SL from 2016), which has a 72° seat tube angle. If I were to put on a 120mm fork the seattube angle would change approximately 1°, which would put me approximately 1.4cm further behind the bottom bracket (yes, I do have long legs). Because my saddle is already slammed forward all the way I would have to buy a shorter stem. But now my Center of Gravtiy changes further backward and is not in the right place anymore. Because the frame was designed around a flat bar and not dropbars I'm already running a 50mm stem and can move my saddle further forward. Be mindful before you buy something your bike wasn't designed around (probably that Fox 36). Current forks are pretty darn good and it's more about how you set it up rather than the material and functional properties. If you're looking for a suspension fork for your hardtail I'd look in the 100-120mm travel region. All the best in your pursuit for comfort and happy touring!

Hi Matt, I ran into a similar issue, but from riding rough single track and rocky roads. The 120mm SID suspension fork I put on my bike makes a really big difference, but doesn't totally eliminate the chatter that can make my hands hurt. Lower tire pressure plays a big role for the smaller, high frequency vibrations. My suspension fork helps with them, but if I have my tires pumped up too much, the fork won't save my hands. I've also found that the additional weight of my gear helps dampen things too, but that might not be relevant for you. The SID fork works really well. I mostly notice the less efficient ride when climbing out of the saddle or doing big swoopy movements; the fork will compress when you shift your weight around, which is why having a lockout is nice. The Pike apparently has some additional vibration reduction tech built in, but I don't know how well that actually works. I think the main reason to go for the Pike or equivalent Fox fork is for the additional tire clearance or if you want something burlier and more durable. For what it's worth, I'm happy with the SID fork, but it's the only suspension fork I've ever used and can't compare it to anything. Whatever you go with, make sure to tune the suspension for your bikepacking load.

Thanks Logan, yes I've followed Virginia's backstory with interest. Good to hear that she has found comfort. Two questions. First, not many fork reviews go into details about how they behave for "easier" things like gravel, crap paved roads, or easy single track...is this because they're all pretty darned good at this point and there is not much to tell them apart? I'm especially interested in this issue in the context of comparing XC forks like the SID to Trail forks like the Pike. Second, you point to older Fox Grip2 stuff in your answer here...is this an implied dis-recommendation for the newer 2024/2025 stuff from Fox for any reason (Grip X/X2, the 36 SL which you reviewed, etc.), or do you point at Grip2 simply because you've got plenty of good experience with it and a deal might be had there?

Hey Matt. As you mentioned, bike fit is crucial, but a suspension fork is a good move. To illustrate, I can give you Virginia's backstory. She suffered hand numbness and hand issues ever since we started touring. We tried everything, including but not limited to a bike fit, bars, and grips. Eventually, she had carpal tunnel surgery in one of her hands. It wasn't until seeing a physical therapist—who is also a cyclist and someone who consults people on bike fit and training—that we found a set of solutions that worked. A couple of these involved touchpoints—the therapist recommended a bar with a 15/16° backsweep and foam grips, and hydraulic brakes. We also outfitted her bike with electronic shifting. All of these things helped greatly, but I think the most important change was indeed adding a suspension fork on her bikepacking/touring bike (a Why Wayward). Since making these changes, she hasn't had any issues. Regarding forks, I think 120mm is a good sweet spot, but it also depends on your riding intentions and the bike. If you mainly want to stick to gravel and mixed terrain, 100 or 110mm could suffice. Then there are features to consider, such as the ability to lock it out. Most modern forks are firm after the beginning stages of travel, so IMO, a lockout isn't as much a priority as it once was. Still, an older Fox 34 with the FIT4 damper or a new RockShox SID might be the best bets if that's a priority. In terms of weight, a SID is hard to beat in that regard. However, for durability and maintenance, it's really hard to beat a previous model Fox 34 with the Grip 2 damper, in my experience. I highly recommend checking out this article: https://bikepacking.com/plan/bikepacking-with-a-suspension-fork/ ... I hope that helps, and feel free to reply if you have further questions.